Wednesday, July 15, 2026

Interesting Liturgical Sights on a Recent Trip to Europe (1): Vienna and Environs

In May, my daughter and I visited a few places in Austria and Italy, and while I wasn’t much of a shutterbug (I’m trying these days to leave my camera mostly unused), I’ll admit that I pulled it out whenever I saw something that I thought NLM readers might enjoy seeing. As usual, click on the images to enlarge.

The ceiling of the sacristy at Heiligenkreuz Abbey. Note how the tormentors of the three children in the fiery furnace are sporting turbans, a reminder that the Turks once ransacked this abbey.

For a place that’s supposed to help priests become recollected for Mass, the interplay between this priest and his server is rather funny!

The Pummerin of Stephansdom in Vienna, the third largest bell in Europe at 44,380 lbs or the weight of 15-20 cars; its metal is from 208 Turkish cannons melted down after the Siege of Vienna.

Our guide took us up to the perimeter of the Stephansdom roof to give us a close look at the tiles.

Here’s the huge room under the Stephansdom roof, above the vaulted nave of the church - it's almost the size of a church in itself.

Monday, March 09, 2026

St Frances of Rome and the Counter-Reformation

This Thursday, the feast of Pope St Gregory the Great, is the anniversary of one of the most important events of the Counter-Reformation. On that day in the year 1622, Pope Gregory XV canonized four Saints who had played particularly important roles in the reformation of the Church after the terrible shock of the Protestant rebellion: Philip Neri, Ignatius of Loyola, Francis Xavier, and Theresa of Avila. This was not, however, the first canonization of Counter-Reformation Saints; that honor fell to Gregory XV’s predecessor, Paul V, when he canonized Charles Borromeo in 1610. (St Charles’ was the first fast-track canonization of the modern era, with his process completed only 26 years after his death.) The ceremony was held on All Saints’ day of 1610, the closest major solemnity to the day of Charles’ death, November 3rd; a statement, in response to the Reformation, that sanctity still thrived within the Church, and that its hierarchy, the source of so much scandal and corruption in the years leading up to Luther’s revolt, had truly been reformed.

St Frances of Rome, by the Italian painter Fabrizio Boschi (1572-1642). She is traditionally depicted in the company of her guardian angel, whom she could regular see and converse with. (Image from Wikimedia Commons by Francesco Bini, CC BY-SA 4.0.)
About a year-and-a-half earlier, Pope Paul had canonized the Saint whose feast we keep today, Frances of Rome (1384-1440). This was also in a very important sense a canonization of the Counter-Reformation, even though Frances died well before the Reformation itself began. The protestants rejected the idea of marriage as a sacrament, and completely abolished religious life for both men and women. Taken together, these two things meant that women could no longer choose a life in community dedicated wholly and solely to the service of God, while the only way of life left open to them, marriage, was reduced to an arrangement which brought with it many duties, but no sense that the fulfillment of those duties is a means of sanctification. In response, the Church presented Frances as a woman who became a Saint both as a wife and mother, and as the foundress of a community of Benedictine oblates.

St Charles’ life was a sign that the Church had successfully effected necessary reforms of the abuses and corruption that had helped to spark the Reformation. During much of St Frances’ life, the Church labored under the Great Western Schism (1378-1417), an event which brought much difficulty and suffering directly upon her and her family, precisely because they were faithful to the true popes, despite the great unworthiness of the latter. But she also lived to see the healing of the schism, and therefore serves as a sign of fidelity to the Church, even when it was at its worst, and of sanctity flourishing in the church of Rome specifically, when its head was not the holy father that our Holy Mother deserves.
An engraving of the early 17th century, showing the temporary sanctuary constructed around the altar of St Peter’s basilica for the canonization of St Charles in 1610. At that point, the basilica’s exterior walls had been finished, but the project to build the great baldachin over the high altar would not begin for another 13 years.
Not long after his election in 1605, Paul V commissioned an architect named Flaminio Ponzio (1560 – 1618) to design and build the great chapel attached to the basilica of St Maria Maggiore which now bears his family name, Borghese. Its most important feature is one of the most famous icons in the world, the Madonna ‘Salus Populi Romani’ (salvation of the people of Rome), which is kept in the reredos of the main altar. Many of the finest artists of the era were brought in to execute the decorations, among them, Pietro Bernini, the father of the famous sculptor Gian Lorenzo. The latter was discovered by the cardinal supervising the project, Paul V’s nephew Scipione, and it was the pope himself who rightly predicted that he would become the Michelangelo of his times.
This chapel became one of the most important models for architectural decoration in the Counter-Reformation period. The lower part is made with darker materials, which represent the world; the upper is dominated by gold, white, and light-filled windows, representing heaven. The gold, a symbol of God’s grace, comes down into the lower part in the reredos, surrounding the icon. This serves as a response to the protestant idea that grace merely covers over the corrupt nature of sinful man, but does not truly change it for the better; as Luther described it, with his typical crudity, it is like snow covering over a dungheap. The Borghese chapel shows us God’s grace coming into and enlightening the world, effecting the true sanctification, the “making holy”, of man, a process which began with the Incarnation in the womb of the holy Virgin.
The Borghese chapel seen from outside, and about as good an illustration of what the light coming in from the dome is supposed to convey as one could hope for. (Public domain image from Wikimedia Commons by Karelj.)
The main altar of the chapel, which houses the icon of the Virgin Mary, honored with the title Salus Populi Romani. Image from Wikimedia Commons by Fallaner, CC BY-SA 4.0.
It is therefore a deliberate part of the program that as soon as one enters the space, there are placed to either side small chapels dedicated to St Frances of Rome (on the left), and St Charles Borromeo (on the right). These chapels remind us that God came into the world through the Virgin, and, as He promised (John 14, 18), did not leave us orphans, as the protestants would have it. In the life of a great cardinal and bishop, and no less in the life of a wife, mother and religious, we see His grace always working for the authentic reformation of our own lives, and of the life of the Church.
Photos of the two chapels, just inside the Borghese, courtesy of Mr Jacob Stein, author of the blog Crux Stationalis: the chapel of St Francis...
and of St Charles.

Monday, July 28, 2025

A Reliquary from the Time of St Ambrose

Today is the feast of a group of four Saints, the martyrs Nazarius and Celsus, who are traditionally said to have died at Milan in the middle of the first century, and Popes Victor I (ca. 189-99) and Innocent I (401-17). On the Ambrosian Calendar, the two martyrs have the day to themselves, and their feast is kept with a vigil; there is also a feast of the translation of Nazarius’ relics on May 10th.

The high altar of the church of the Holy Apostles and St Nazarius, commonly known as “San Nazaro in Brolo”, with the relics of St Nazarius.
In 395 AD, their bodies were discovered by St Ambrose in a garden outside the city; when the tomb of Nazarius was opened, his blood was seen to be as fresh as if he had just been wounded. His relics were then taken to a basilica which Ambrose had constructed about 15 years earlier, and dedicated to the Twelve Apostles; a large apse was added to the church, and the relics laid to rest in a crypt in the middle of it. In 1578, in the course of building a new altar for the church, a silver reliquary contemporary to the original construction of the basilica was discovered under the high altar, with relics of the Apostles Ss Peter and Paul inside it. St Ambrose himself attests that these relics had been given to him by Pope St Damasus I, for the first dedication of the church to the Twelve Apostles; St Charles was rather disappointed to find that they were not relics of their bodies, but relics “by contact”, pieces of cloth that had touched the Apostles’ bones. Nevertheless, he donated one of his own copes to wrap up the relics of St Nazarius, the Apostles, and four of his Sainted predecessors among the archbishops of Milan, who were buried in the church. The reliquary is now displayed in the museum of the Archdiocese of Milan; thanks to Nicola for all of these pictures.

On the lid of the reliquary are shown Christ and the Twelve Apostles. On the lower left are seen the baskets of fragments collected by the Apostles after the multiplication of the loaves and fishes; on the lower right, the six vessels of water turned into wine during the Wedding at Cana. The custom of representing Christ beardless to distinguish Him from the Father was still common in this era, although soon to fade away. The classical style of all five of the panels is very typical of the highest quality artworks of the era, as one would expect from a work commissioned by a man of aristocratic background and high political rank like St Ambrose; this is particularly evident in the pose of the standing figures, which are very reminiscent of the better Roman statues.

Joseph sitting in judgment on his brothers; the young prisoner on the left is Benjamin, the older one on the right is Judah. The hat worn by Joseph and the other brothers, known as a Phrygian cap, was generically associated by the Romans with peoples of the Eastern Mediterranean and beyond, and often adopted by the Christians to represent the characters in the Old Testament.

The Three Children in the Furnace, also wearing the Phrygian cap, and the angel that comes to make the inside of the furnace cool.

The Judgment of Solomon.

Thursday, July 28, 2022

A Reliquary from the Time of St Ambrose

Today is the feast of a group of four Saints, the martyrs Nazarius and Celsus, who are traditionally said to have died at Milan in the middle of the first century, and Popes Victor I (ca. 189-99) and Innocent I (401-17). On the Ambrosian Calendar, the two martyrs have the day to themselves, and their feast is kept with a vigil; there is also a feast of the translation of Nazarius’ relics on May 10th.

The high altar of the church of the Holy Apostles and St Nazarius, commonly known as “San Nazaro in Brolo”, with the relics of St Nazarius.
In 395 AD, their bodies were discovered by St Ambrose in a garden outside the city; when the tomb of Nazarius was opened, his blood was seen to be as fresh as if he had just been wounded. His relics were then taken to a basilica which Ambrose had constructed about 15 years earlier, and dedicated to the Twelve Apostles; a large apse was added to the church, and the relics laid to rest in a crypt in the middle of it. In 1578, in the course of building a new altar for the church, a silver reliquary contemporary to the original construction of the basilica was discovered under the high altar, with relics of the Apostles Ss Peter and Paul inside it. St Ambrose himself attests that these relics had been given to him by Pope St Damasus I, for the first dedication of the church to the Twelve Apostles; St Charles was rather disappointed to find that they were not relics of their bodies, but relics “by contact”, pieces of cloth that had touched the Apostles’ bones. Nevertheless, he donated one of his own copes to wrap up the relics of St Nazarius, the Apostles, and four of his Sainted predecessors among the archbishops of Milan, who were buried in the church. The reliquary is now displayed in the museum of the Archdiocese of Milan; thanks to Nicola for all of these pictures.

On the lid of the reliquary are shown Christ and the Twelve Apostles. On the lower left are seen the baskets of fragments collected by the Apostles after the multiplication of the loaves and fishes; on the lower right, the six vessels of water turned into wine during the Wedding at Cana. The custom of representing Christ beardless to distinguish Him from the Father was still common in this era, although soon to fade away. The classical style of all five of the panels is very typical of the highest quality artworks of the era, as one would expect from a work commissioned by a man of aristocratic background and high political rank like St Ambrose; this is particularly evident in the pose of the standing figures, which are very reminiscent of the better Roman statues.

Joseph sitting in judgment on his brothers; the young prisoner on the left is Benjamin, the older one on the right is Judah. The hat worn by Joseph and the other brothers, known as a Phrygian cap, was generically associated by the Romans with peoples of the Eastern Mediterranean and beyond, and often adopted by the Christians to represent the characters in the Old Testament.

The Three Children in the Furnace, also wearing the Phrygian cap, and the angel that comes to make the inside of the furnace cool.

The Judgment of Solomon.

Thursday, September 10, 2020

A Rare Historical Photograph from Milan Cathedral

On September 10, 1910, His Eminence Andrea Cardinal Ferrari, Archbishop of Milan, initiated a special series of celebrations to commemorate the third centenary of the canonization of St Charles Borromeo, which took place on All Saints’ Day of 1610, in the reign of Pope Paul V. The relics of St Charles are in a large urn which is normally over the altar of a chapel in the crypt of Milan cathedral; for centuries, it was the custom that bishops would celebrate at this altar when visiting the city. For this special centenary celebration, the urn was brought up to the main church, and set in front of the large preaching pulpit at the edge of the principal sanctuary. At the time, it was still very unusual for photography to be allowed at all in churches, even for major events, but our Ambrosian writer Nicola de’ Grandi just found this very nice photo of the relics thus exposed, although the figures in the foreground have clearly been retouched.

Here is another view of the relics displayed, with the Cardinal kneeling before them, attended by several mitred canons. When Andrea Ferrari was appointed to the see of Milan in 1894, he took an extra name “Carlo” as a sign of devotion to his sainted predecessor in the see of St Ambrose. At a guess, this image would probably have been made for an Italian period similar to the old Life Magazine.

And here is a collage of images which show the relics displayed in the cathedral, the decoration of the church’s façade and interior, and a group of civil and ecclesiastical dignitaries with Cardinal Antonio Agliardi, the Papal envoy to the centenary celebrations.

Sunday, March 08, 2020

Pray for Italy

The following has been reported on several news sites, and confirmed by an official communication of the Italian Bishops’ Conference (in Italian, on the website of their newspaper, Avvenire). In obedience to a decree of the Italian government, as part of the effort to contain the spread of the coronavirus, “all civil and religious ceremonies, including funerals”, are officially suspended until April 3rd. This includes all public celebrations of the Mass, not excluding Sundays; the country is effectively under interdict. As this epidemic gets worse on a global scale, which it seems certain will continue for the foreseeable future, the hierarchies of other nations will have to address what it means for the religious life of their people. Obviously, there are innumerable Saints who have intervened in times of plague, but I would recommend that we also ask, on behalf of our bishops, for the intervention of St Charles Borromeo, a model bishop in so many ways. When Milan was struck by a plague in 1576-77, the city was largely abandoned by the civil authorities, and St Charles was the first not only to aid the afflicted, but also to lead the Church in prayer for deliverance from the plague.
St Charles Borromeo leading a procession with the relic of the Holy Nail during the great plague which struck Milan in 1576-7by Giovanni Battista Della Rovere (also known as “il Fiamminghino - the little Fleming”, since his father was born in Antwerp), 1602. This is one of several paintings of episodes of St Charles’ life which every year are hung from bars between the columns of the Duomo for his feast day (November 4th), and left up until the Epiphany.
The same subject by Guglielmo Caccia, known as “il Moncalvo”, 1614
The cross carried by St Charles during one of the processions in the summer of 1576, when the plague hit particularly hard, now at the sanctuary of Santa Maria dei Miracoli presso San Celso in Milan.
 

Thursday, July 25, 2019

The Shrine of Santa Maria del Fonte in Caravaggio, Italy

In the year 1432, the northern Italian city of Caravaggio, about 22 miles to the east of Milan, was at the center of a long-running conflict between the Duchy of Milan and the Venetian Republic, a conflict attended by frequent seiges and sacks, violent faction-fighting within the cities and towns of the whole area, and plundering by bands of mercenaries roving the countryside. On May 26th of that year, the Virgin Mary appeared to a peasant girl named Gianetta de’ Vacchi as she was kneeling in a field to say the evening Angelus. In tears, the Virgin consoled Gianetta for the ill-treatment she was then suffering at the hands of her alcoholic husband, and asked her to deliver a message aimed at putting an end to the conflict. The words of the Virgin were as follows: “The Most High and Almighty, My Son, intended to destroy this land, because of the iniquities of men, since they do evil every day, and fall from sin to sin. But for seven years, I have implored My Son for mercy for their sins. Therefore, I wish you to tell each and all to fast on bread and water every Friday, in honor of My Son, and after Vespers, out of devotion to me, to keep every Saturday as a feast day. They must dedicate half of that day to me, in gratitude for the many and great favors obtained from My Son through My intercession.” In accordance with this charge, Giannetta did as she was asked, and implored the civil authorities to make a permanent peace settlement.

As would later happen at Lourdes, a spring of water rose up out of the ground, in which many people were healed of various infirmities; a hospice and church were erected on the site very shortly thereafter. In 1575, St Charles Borromeo began a new and far grander church, according to a design by the architect Pellegrino Tebaldi, but the project was only completed in the early decades of the 18th century; the site of the apparition is directly behind the high altar. It is now the second most visited Marian shrine in Italy after the Holy House of Loreto; here are some recent pictures from our Ambrosian writer Nicola de’ Grandi. (By the way, the painter Michelangelo Merisi was born in Milan in 1571 to a couple from Caravaggio, and used the name of their native place as his nom de plume to distinguish himself from the other, more famous Michelangelo.)

The church is set at the center of a wide piazza, and surrounded by symmetrical tree-lined porticos on all four sides. The fountain of water runs through a corridor underneath the church (photos below), then passes out into this area on the side of the building, and is collected in a large pool surrounded by a marble balustrade.
The site of the apparition, known as “Il Sacro Speco” in Italian, “the Holy Cave.” (The same term is used for the shrine of St Benedict at Subiaco.) The wooden statues of the Virgin Mary and Giannetta (who has never been canonized, but is popularly called a Blessed), the work of Ortisei Moroder, were inaugurated in 1932, during the celebration of the fifth centenary of the apparition. The Blessed Card. Ildephonse Schuster, as Papal Legate, personally crowned the statue of the Virgin.
The nave and high altar.

Wednesday, November 07, 2018

St Charles’ Final Retreat: The Monte Sacro di Varallo (Part 2)

Last Sunday, on the feast of St Charles, we posted some photos of the Monte Sacro di Varallo, where he spent some time in retreat in October of 1584, shortly before returning to Milan to die. Since there are 44 shrines on this “sacred mountain”, as the Italians called them, representing episodes the life of Christ, we couldn’t show the whole series in a single post; here are some of Nicolas’ photos, from the “Ecce homo” to the Holy Sepulcher. At the end are photos of the main church, dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary.

“Ecce homo”  (John 19, 5)
Pilate washes his hands
Christ is condemned to death
The carrying of the Cross; Christ meets Veronica

Sunday, November 04, 2018

St Charles’ Final Retreat: The Monte Sacro di Varallo

In the Breviary lessons for the feast of St Charles Borromeo, whose feast is today, it is stated that towards the end of his life, “he withdrew to the solitude of Monte Varallo, where the mysteries of the Lord’s Passion (inter alia) are represented in life-size sculptures; and there for some days, lived a life made harsh by voluntary penances, but sweetened by meditation on Christ’s sufferings.” This was in October of 1584; he then returned to Milan, and died there on the night between the 3rd and 4th of November.
A representation of St Charles praying at the chapel of Christ’s Agony in the Garden.
Monte Varallo is one of the group of nine pilgrimage shrines in the northern Italian provinces of Lombardy and the Piedmont (three in the former, six in the latter) known as the “Sacri Monti - Sacred Mountains.” It is also the most elaborate, with 44 chapels representing the life of Christ from the Annunciation to His burial, and the Fall of Man as a prelude. Inside each chapel, one of the sacred episodes is represented by a group of life-sized painted statues, and frescoes on the walls; some of these are quite small and simple, others very large indeed. Here are some photos taken by Nicola, which get us up to the Scala Sancta, the stairs that Christ climbed on the way to his trial before Pilate. A second set will be posted later in the week. (The chapels, by the way, are so called because of their architectural structure, but they don’t have altars and are not set up for the celebration of Mass.)

The Fall of Man
The Annunciation
The Visitation
The Arrival of the Three Kings
The Adoration of the Shepherds

Saturday, July 28, 2018

A Reliquary from the Time of St Ambrose

On the calendar of the Extraordinary Form, today is the feast of a group of four Saints, the martyrs Nazarius and Celsus, who are traditionally said to have died at Milan in the middle of the first century, and Popes Victor I (ca. 189-99) and Innocent I (401-17). On the traditional Ambrosian Calendar, the two martyrs have the day to themselves, and their feast is kept with a vigil; there is also a feast of the translation of Nazarius’ relics on May 10th.
The high altar of the church of the Holy Apostles and St Nazarius, commonly known as “San Nazaro in Brolo”, with the relics of St Nazarius.
In 395 AD, their bodies were discovered by St Ambrose in a garden outside the city; when the tomb of Nazarius was opened, his blood was seen to be as fresh as if he had just been wounded. His relics were then taken to a basilica which Ambrose had constructed about 15 years earlier, and dedicated to the Twelve Apostles; a large apse was added to the church, and the relics laid to rest in a crypt in the middle of it. In 1578, in the course of building a new altar for the church, a silver reliquary contemporary to the original construction of the basilica was discovered under the high altar, with relics of the Apostles Ss Peter and Paul inside it. St Ambrose himself attests that these relics had been given to him by Pope St Damasus I, for the first dedication of the church to the Twelve Apostles; St Charles was rather disappointed to find that they were not relics of their bodies, but relics “by contact”, pieces of cloth that had touched the Apostles’ bones. Nevertheless, he donated one of his own copes to wrap up the relics of St Nazarius, the Apostles, and four of his Sainted predecessors among the archbishops of Milan, who were buried in the church. The reliquary is now displayed at Museum of the Archdiocese of Milan; thanks to Nicola for all of these pictures.

On the lid of the reliquary are shown Christ and the Twelve Apostles. On the lower left are seen the baskets of fragments collected by the Apostles after the multiplication of the loaves and fishes; on the lower right, the six vessels of water turned into wine during the Wedding at Cana. The custom of representing Christ beardless to distinguish Him from the Father was still common in this era, although soon to fade away. The classical style of all five of the panels is very typical of the highest quality artworks of the era, as one would expect from a work commissioned by a man of aristocratic background and high political rank like St Ambrose; this is particularly evident in the pose of the standing figures, which are very reminiscent of the better Roman statues.

Joseph sitting in judgment on his brothers; the young prisoner on the left is Benjamin, the older one on the right is Judah. The hat worn by Joseph and the other brothers, known as a Phrygian cap, was generically associated by the Romans with peoples of the Eastern Mediterranean and beyond, and often adopted by the Christians to represent the characters in the Old Testament.

The Three Children in the Furnace, also wearing the Phrygian cap, and the angel that comes to make the inside of the furnace cool.

The Judgment of Solomon.

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